Cold Noodles With Zucchini Because Yikes, This Heat

I look forward to the first zucchini of the season almost as much spring’s first asparagus. Taut, crunchy and with an almost grassy taste, the small, early zucchinis have a concentrated flavor without the diffuse bloat of their overgrown siblings. Of course, the vegetable gardeners among us have all summer to take their pick of the tiniest, perkiest zucchini, but those of us at the mercy of the market will have…