A Restaurant Critic’s Full Plate Encroaches on His Palate

At first, I thought it would be easy enough to update my list of the 100 best restaurants in New York City.The New York Times had published my first guide in April 2023. The second guide, to be released a year later, would only require a simple refresh, right? I would add a few places that had just opened, send some of last year’s crop to the bench, spruce up the copy and file the text to my editor.A week into…