Home Cooking So Good, Only a Restaurant Could Do It

This is Melissa Clark’s first review as an interim restaurant critic, along with Priya Krishna, for The New York Times.My first thought as the waiter slid a plate of stir-fried noodles in front of me at Lola’s was, I can make this at home. Noodles seared hot and fast with vegetables, a dash of soy sauce and a cube of Japanese curry? For even a moderately motivated home cook, that’s just Tuesday.It took a single…