Restaurant Review: A Shawarma Stall Is the Stage for a Spice Virtuoso

For a long time, I thought of Lior Lev Sercarz as the chef who got away.After moving to New York from France in 2002, he held prime spots in Daniel Boulud’s organization, first as a cook and sous-chef at Daniel for four years, followed by two years in charge of the catering kitchen. For many young cooks of that era, the Boulud finishing school was a ladder that led straight to a restaurant of their own. But…