The Condiment Wars Come for Chile Crisp (or Crunch)

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when we reached peak chile crisp in the United States, but if you were to inspect my kitchen today you’d see, alongside an old jar of Lao Gan Ma — years ago, the only chile crisp I could easily find in the food shops nearby — at least a half-dozen others.While each jar contains a spicy crimson sediment under oil, some have the sweetness of star anise, while others are deepened with…