The Pure, Earthy Richness of a Beloved Jamaican Fish Stew

“So much of Jamaican food is resistance food,” Thompson told me. “It’s like, ‘We’ll take what you’re offering because we have to. But we’re going to make it amazing.’” In this, the dish has kinship with American barbecue and French classics like coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon, all testaments to the power of seasoning and steady, patient simmering to soothe and lull tough meats until they give up their knots and…